Flanêur à Ajaccio

Sunday October 6 was a mix of sun and cloud with a high of 20C.  

View from the balcony- early morning

We decided to go the Market, which closes at 1:00 p.m. on Sundays.

Ferry boats in the harbour this morning

The market has three parts.  First is a covered part with just tables and a number of charcuterie and cheese sellers, with a few baked goods tables.   The second part is the back part of the covered building (at the end of the tables in the picture (below).  This part has a number of fancier stalls selling prepared goods, wine, and beer.  The fish stalls are also on one side of the second covered part.


First part with tables with mostly charcuterie, cheeses and backed goods

More permanent structures and fancier roof in the second covered part

Lots of folks having glasses of wine from this booth

The third part is the outdoor market with fruit and vegetables vendors along with more cheese and charcuterie purveyors.  There is also some seating outside for folks to enjoy their fish platters and other goodies.

Outside part of the market

Chez Emilie et Charly- family fruit and veg stand

We picked up some provisions for dinner. We had been planning to eat out, but as tomorrow is a travel day and as we didn't feel like a big meal, we decided to eat a light dinner in the apartment.  It was also nice to be able to get fresh fruit and vegetables and some charcuterie to go along with the sheep cheese we had purchased on Saturday.

Another photo of Napoléon as a Roman Consul and the Four Lions

Lots of gold Napoléon triangles on the pavement in this area 

I got a better photo of the outside of Maison Bonaparte which we visited on Saturday

There are a number of small churches as well as the main Cathedral in the centre of Ajaccio.  We first stopped at Saint John The Baptist Church, the oldest religious building in Ajaccio.  It was built in 1580.  Several members of the Bonaparte family were baptised in the church.

Église Saint-Jean Baptise

Inside of the church- nave has a vaulted roof which was painted during the 19th century.

We also passed Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral, the main Cathedral in Ajaccio completed in 1593.  The building is typical of Counter-Reformation architecture.   

Outside of the main Cathedral

Eugène Delacroix, Our Lady of the Sacred Heart

Inside of the Cathedral

There was a plaque on one of the walls:  It says that the dying words of Napoleon (on the island of St. Helena) were "They can banish my corpse from Paris as they have banished my person.  
I wish to be buried next to my ancestors in the Cathedral of Ajaccio in Corsica."  


Inside of the Cathedral

We decided to have a late lunch at one of the few places that was open on Sundays--Chez Josephine-- very close to the Maison Bonaparte.

Buzzy place

Their home made chips

Oddly their sandwiches were on soft bagels-- Alain had salmon and I had chicken and avocado

After lunch, which was very relaxing, we walked around the Citadel of Ajaccio, a historic fortress that offers panoramic views of the sea.   It was built in 1492 on a strategic site by the Genoese in order to protect the city from maritime attacks.   It was used as a prison during WWII and was the last destination the Resistance fighter Fred Scamaroni, who had created the Gaullist Corsican Action R2 network in 1941,  He had been mandated by de Gaulle in January 1943 to try and bring unity to the Resistance movement.  He was betrayed by his radio operator and arrested by the Italian OVRA (Italian counter-espionage) during the night of 18-19 March 1943.  He chose to cut his throat with a piece of wire, leaving a last message written in his own blood:"Long live France and long live de Gaulle."

The citadel belonged to the Ministry of Defence until it was passed over to the city of Ajaccio in 2005.  Entrance is free and the buildings are very run-down.  A few artists have small studios there, but there were only a few people wandering around the grounds when we were there.

Outside walls of the citadel

Looking down at play area

At the entrance- bust of General Pierre Lelong

Entranceway


Plaque noting that in August 1914, the 373 Regiment left for the front


Plaque re 173 Infantry Regiment that fought in WWI and WWII

Building C with a few artist studios- quite run-down

There was not a lot to see inside the walls.   We headed back for a view of the beach and the water.

View from outer wall

We passed another small church, Église San Rochellu built at the turn of the 17th century. 

Outside of the church

Inside

We then walked up to the Musée Fesch which displays the painting collection amassed by Cardinal Joseph Fesch (1763-1839), Napoléon's maternal uncle.   The building was completed in 1839 and significantly restored in 1987.  
Entrance to the Fesch Museum

Courtyard

Adjoining Imperial Chapel built between 1857-1859 for Napoleon III.  It houses the tombs of Cardinal Fesch, Napoleon's parents, and other members of the Bonaparte family.

Statue of Cardinal Fesch

We were both very tired and it was already late afternoon.  We decided to take a pass on a visit to the Museum and to head back to the apartment.  Alain made a light dinner and we finished our pack for Monday's bus trip to Bonifacio, our last stop in Corsica.  Bonifacio is located on the narrow southernmost part of Corsica.  The adventure continues!




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